We Gonna Ride an git some Kulture: September 5: Decin

Today we had the route app working well and it took us directly to the hotel, as opposed to getting us in the "general vicinity" as had been the case the day before.

Unfortunately, because the app uses so much battery power, I don't dare keep my phone on for other than the times where we definitely need route guidance. Such as today. For the most part, we can get by with the written description and hard copy maps provided by the tour company but on occasion, it would have been helpful to run the app and have the step by step turn notices.

You can actually see where we lost the trail on the map at Sebuzin. What the map does NOT show is that there was some serious elevation gain happening. The bike trail crossed a busy road and what we did not identify is that there was a trail marker on the opposite side of the road and when we could see landscape that we thought matched the trail description, we turned right up the hill when we should have gone straight. Not the end of the world and while we grew increaasingly suspicious, we eventually figured out that we had gone the wrong way, retraced our steps then collectively blushed when we did see the sign for "Route 2 Dresden".

At Usti nad Labem, we stopped at a trail-side rest stop/pub (any place that serves cold drinks invariably serves beer and hard liquor; it's a mixed blessing) which was at the foot of the magnificent Strekov Castle, atop a 100 metre cliff. Some lovely South African gals, Joanne and Helen who appear to have been following us since leaving Prague, were at the same place cooling their jets. We have seen these gals every day and sometimes, two or three times in a day so as we became more familiar to their faces, we said increasingly more to them each time they passed us (that should tell you something). They are amazingly strong riders and invariably, would leave after us in the morning (or so they said - that might have been total B.S. for all we knew) and then would pass us mid morning at some point then again after lunch. They were good fun.

Strekov Castle is an impressive site, even from below. Built in 1306

Still in Usti nad Labe, we rode under the Mariansky Bridge, a large cantilever bridge over the Elbe. It spans 179 metres and is 60 metres high and is an impressive and beautiful structure. It led to Nan and me having a discussion about public owned assets and how the City of Edmonton built a beautiful bridge across the North Saskaetchwan River that was over budget and a year delayed before completion, after some steel for the bridge was... "spoiled" all of which resulted in the City taking a lot of heat for the decision. Could there be a cheaper bridge? Almost certainly. Could your city or state be known as a Soviet era clone? That is a possibility, too. Public owned infrastructure makes a statement, it just depends on what you want that statement to be. Every day as we ride our bicycles along this superhighway of bicycle trails, I am in awe of the magnitude of this mulit-country project. At times, it is paved, at times it is gravel (not too often), occasionally brick but there always all kinds of rest places such as picnic tables, benches, abd the aforementioned commercial rest stops.

We inadvertently rode through Usti without finding a place for lunch and we were a little nervous that that had been a miscalculation. We passed be several more places on the trail that were closed but I thought we hit the motherload when there was a campground off the bike trail that appeared to be well equipped with outdoor activities (we were just dying to play beach vollyball) and a big restaurant right beside the river. There were staff around, though it didn't look too busy but I figured that was because it was around 1:30 or 2:00 pm. Turns out, they were closed for a private function, happening in a short time. I did manage to get my water bottle filled, however.

We were riding through what seemed to be an old industrial district and looking at the map, I see the area is called Nestemice. Though the area was well forested, there were several factories or plants, decades since abandoned and maybe a century since construction. There was a lot of industry in the area up until the end of the war - mostly low grade stuff like soda production and as well, sugar. I saw that power lines were still running to some plants despite the fact that the premises were well overgrown and there was hardily an intact window to be seen. It was spooky to be able to several brick stacks in the area but with the associated plants long since shuttered.

What Nestimice did have to offer was a cafe along the bike path that was opened. We were pretty excited by this because we hungry and hot and we could have a rest and get something to eat. Of course, out in the back woods we were not too likely to find somebody speaking English so I just used the universal method of making myself understood by talking louder. I quickly learned two things: that the only thing she had to eat was hot soup and that she was crabby. Maybe because we were the only customers. We had no idea what kind of soup was on offer but everybody ordered a bowl and a bottle of water. I think for Nan and me is came to almost Canadian $3. The soup, which was home made, was absolutely amazing. Great flavour, filled with vegetables and potatoes and some meat, likely pork. Somehow I ended up with a metal spoon while everybody else had plastic, so when I took it to her to return it, I held it up for her and when she reached out for it I clasped her hand in both of mine and while holding them told her enthusiastically how good the soup was. Even though I am sure she thought I was from outer space, she clearly got the message and smiled and laughed.

We made it to Decin in good time and the hotel is situated on a beautiful square and has an Indian restaurant directly beside it. After getting cleaned up, we went for a beer at the Czech version of The Legion and then for dinner at the Indian restaurant. We had heard from the tour operator that it was a really good Indian restaurant and that they didn't speak Czech, only some Indian and English. Turns out the owners were actually from Nepal, so I doubt they spoke any Indian languages but the rumour was true about the food.